A lot of people dont think about how important fitness and diet is to making you a better wave rider. Taking care of your body with both exercise and diet are really key to improving and prolonging your enjoyment in the water. Whether you are a world champion or just enjoying the sports as a hobby, it is IMPORTANT.
Here is an interview that Kelly did which could help mold your philosophy on how to live your life.
Kelly Slater on your health:
I used to think that my prime was my 20′s and that after 30 my surfing ability would start to decline. The gift of youth is somewhat an illusion. Kelly Slater is in his 40′s and is still the best. Beating men half his age. How does he do it? He is focused, his performance in the water is more important than anything else. So every aspect of his life is modified with this in mind. Health and fitness plays a major role.
I am 31 now and feel stronger in the water than ever before. I have had to modify my lifestyle to slow the affects of aging, but it is all worth it. Waking up early with a clear mind and a body that feels amazing is a well cherished achievement, the rewards are far outweigh the sacrifices. It takes discipline to say no to desert, to get up early and train when the ocean is flat. Watching Kelly Slater surf with the speed, power and grace he had in his 20′s makes me excited about the next 10 years of my surfing life (and beyond), motivates me to train and to eat well.
What is more important to you?
A, Feeling fit and strong in the water and to still be surfing when your 70 years old!
or
B, The short term pleasures gained from drinking, eating crap food, being lazy, ______ (enter your excuse here)
If you choose A, then you will face hurdles, here are some tips:
Physical
Keeping fit, strong and supple becomes more important as we age. Even when the surf is flat get up early, and do some training, there are plenty of things you can do and you don’t need any equipment or a gym membership. Finding a 40 min window is the easy part (put it in your dairy). Making sure the time is spent wisely is key. There are plenty of tips on this site, however as I write this it is still in the early stages of development and site content is small. If you have any questions regarding surf health and fitness please email me: mike@surfhealthandfitness.com
Nutrition
What you eat is far more important than anything else. It takes dedication to eat well. Good food can be hard to find. I recommend going to organic farmers markets for groceries.
Sleep
We need 7-8hrs
Asleep by 10pm, up at 530/6am is the best routine.
Motivation
When the waves are crap and you feel like watching TV and eating ice-cream, put on your favorite surf vid. You soon realize whats important.
Social and peer pressure:
If you hang out with people that don’t share the same values as you then they will influence you and you find yourself spending your money on drinks, dinner, etc instead of that new board you have been dreaming of. Hang out with other ‘true surfers’. Invite friends around and cook fresh clean meals and limit alcohol. Its far cheaper and far healthier than the restaurant scene.
—
The rewards are 10 fold. Its not just about surfing, its your longevity, your health, and the health of your family and friends.
Here is a quick interview with the best wave rider in the world, Kelly Slater: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TjVyd7XhqNw
